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9 April 2008 - Dawa Steven
Sherpa
After a great night's sleep at Namche, Au Pertemba, my paternal uncle, (Au in Sherpa
language means uncle) woke us up at 7 on the dot. After an introduction between
the climbers and glaciologists from ICIMOD research team, and posing for a "photo-op"
with the army Major in charge of the camp, we headed off into different directions.
The research team went towards the Thame valley and Dig Tsho lake, the climbing
team toward the Khumbu valley and Everest Base Camp.
At a place called Sanasa, I spotted my porters cooking their lunch on pots they
had brought with them and kindling they collected from around the area. They invited
me to share their lunch of kodoko dhido (cooked millet dough), simiko daal (bean
soup) and bhaisi ko ghiyu (buffalo milk butter). I appreciated their hospitality,
sharing their meager meal and talking to them about their lives. It seemed an opportune
moment to try out the solar and briquette technology and get their response. I whipped
out the portable solar cooker and demonstrated it to them. They were impressed to
see the amount of heat that it produced. The actual use and usefulness we still
need to investigate further.
On the walk from Namche onwards, it saddened me to see that one of the most beautiful
treks in the world is also at times full of garbage. It was equally embarrassing
to see that much of the rubbish were the type that would have been discarded by
the Nepalese: candy wrappers, chewing tobacco wrappers, Chinese made batteries,
soft drink and mineral water bottles, etc. Au Pertemba and I strapped a plastic
bag on the hip strap of our backpacks and picked up garbage strewn on the way. What
surprised me was how easy it was to do and it cost us no extra energy. If only every
trekker could pick up at least one piece of rubbish every kilometer they walk, the
entire trail would heal itself. Simple!
At Tengboche, my uncle and I had a private audience with the abbot of Tengboche
Monastery, the Rinpoche (the Precious One). I felt very happy to see him in good
spirits and in good health. I asked him for his blessings for a safe climb and to
ask for the gods' permission to conduct our glacial research in the high sacred
mountains.
Over dinner Au Pertemba explained that the Rinpoche had told him that my grandfather,
Konjok Chhumbi had protected Khumjung village and fought for the survival of our
way of life. Now, he felt great happiness that Konjok Chumbi's blood had returned
to his home to help his people.
He said that because of the faith that the Sherpa people had in the Buddha and the
prayers we offered, even during the difficult time in the last decade, tourists
never stopped visiting our homeland. The Rinpoche has been aware of the melting
ice in the mountains and has offered prayers so the gods may not release the water
from the high glacial lakes. He said to me, "I am very thankful to the scientists
for their help and I will support them in our prayers. If we want to be effective
we have to work together. This is the way to obtain sonam (good fortune)."
So now with the blessings of the Rinpoche, I finally feel that the Eco Everest Expedition 2008 has come to life.
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Research Dispatches
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May 21, 2008
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May 18, 2008
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May 10, 2008
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April 20 - 01 May, 2008
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April 20-29, 2008
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April 11, 2008
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April 10, 2008
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April 9, 2008
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April 8, 2008
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April 7, 2008
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April 6, 2008
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