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Climbing Dispatches

9 April 2008 - Dawa Steven Sherpa

 

After a great night's sleep at Namche, Au Pertemba, my paternal uncle, (Au in Sherpa language means uncle) woke us up at 7 on the dot. After an introduction between the climbers and glaciologists from ICIMOD research team, and posing for a "photo-op" with the army Major in charge of the camp, we headed off into different directions. The research team went towards the Thame valley and Dig Tsho lake, the climbing team toward the Khumbu valley and Everest Base Camp.

 

At a place called Sanasa, I spotted my porters cooking their lunch on pots they had brought with them and kindling they collected from around the area. They invited me to share their lunch of kodoko dhido (cooked millet dough), simiko daal (bean soup) and bhaisi ko ghiyu (buffalo milk butter). I appreciated their hospitality, sharing their meager meal and talking to them about their lives. It seemed an opportune moment to try out the solar and briquette technology and get their response. I whipped out the portable solar cooker and demonstrated it to them. They were impressed to see the amount of heat that it produced. The actual use and usefulness we still need to investigate further.

 

On the walk from Namche onwards, it saddened me to see that one of the most beautiful treks in the world is also at times full of garbage. It was equally embarrassing to see that much of the rubbish were the type that would have been discarded by the Nepalese: candy wrappers, chewing tobacco wrappers, Chinese made batteries, soft drink and mineral water bottles, etc. Au Pertemba and I strapped a plastic bag on the hip strap of our backpacks and picked up garbage strewn on the way. What surprised me was how easy it was to do and it cost us no extra energy. If only every trekker could pick up at least one piece of rubbish every kilometer they walk, the entire trail would heal itself. Simple!

 

At Tengboche, my uncle and I had a private audience with the abbot of Tengboche Monastery, the Rinpoche (the Precious One). I felt very happy to see him in good spirits and in good health. I asked him for his blessings for a safe climb and to ask for the gods' permission to conduct our glacial research in the high sacred mountains.

 

Over dinner Au Pertemba explained that the Rinpoche had told him that my grandfather, Konjok Chhumbi had protected Khumjung village and fought for the survival of our way of life. Now, he felt great happiness that Konjok Chumbi's blood had returned to his home to help his people.

 

He said that because of the faith that the Sherpa people had in the Buddha and the prayers we offered, even during the difficult time in the last decade, tourists never stopped visiting our homeland. The Rinpoche has been aware of the melting ice in the mountains and has offered prayers so the gods may not release the water from the high glacial lakes. He said to me, "I am very thankful to the scientists for their help and I will support them in our prayers. If we want to be effective we have to work together. This is the way to obtain sonam (good fortune)."

 

So now with the blessings of the Rinpoche, I finally feel that the Eco Everest Expedition 2008 has come to life.

 

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